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HomeMy WebLinkAboutArborist Report MLA19-00045 PN 932200801 & OthersVegetation Management Beckett Point Fishermen's Club Port Townsend WA Richard R Hefley - Consulting Arborist PO Box 177, 101 Reinier Road Nordland WA Page 2 of 31 Arboricultural Assessment Client: Beckett Point Fishermen's Club Port Townsend WA Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olypen.com Page 3 of 31 Author: Richard R Hefley Consulting Arborist Site Visit Date : 04/10/2019 Report Date : 04/22/2019 OBJECTIVES: Assess trees within the Beckett Point Common Area for pruning, cutting, and other recommendations on five separate properties. BACKGROUND I was contacted by Christine Heycke by phone on 04/02/2019. She requested I examine and provide a report assessing trees and providing recommendations for five properties in Beckett Point. I visited the site on 04/10 and, accompanied by Ms Heycke, visited all the sites concerned. Christine provided many photos for this report. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefleyoolyi2en.com Page 4 of 31 CONTENTS: Page 05 ..... Executive Summary Pages 07-08 ..... Observations/Discussion/Recommendations (ODR) Site #01 Pages 08-09 ..... ODR - Site #02 Page 10 ..... ODR - Site #03 Pages 11-12 ..... ODR - Site #04 Pages 13-15 .... ODR - Site #05 Page 16..... Waiver of Liability, Contact Information Pages 17-31 .... APPENDICES Pages 17-18 ....Methods of Observation Pages 19-20 ..... Pruning Guide Pages 21-23 ..... Evergreen Vegetation Pages 24-31 ..... Notes on Habitat Trees Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@oLypen.com Page 5 of 31 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY: I was contacted by Christine Heycke by phone on 04/02/2019. She requested I examine and provide a report assessing trees and providing recommendations for five properties in Beckett Point. I visited the site on 04/10 and, accompanied by Ms Heycke, visited all the sites concerned. Christine provided many photos for this report. The sites are located in the Beckett Point Common Area where indicated on the aerial photo below - At the first four sites I recommend that pruned vegetation be removed if it can be done so without causing damage to existing plants on the slope or the soils. If that cannot be achieved then the debris should be cut into small sections, no longer than 6" in length, and spread thinly across the slopes. Larger limbs/trunks may be securely anchored across slopes using existing tree trunks and stumps as anchors. The fifth site would benefit from replanting native vegetation. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefleyoolvnen.com Page 6 of 31 Details of each work -site are given in the Observations/Discussion/Recommendations (ODR) section of this report. Site #01 - 492 Beckett Point Road, is a request t&jjrune previously topped mature and healthy Douglas Fir. I recommend the pruning of no more than 20% of the total canopy area. Remove pruned limbs if they can be removed from the slope without causing damage to the soil or existing plants. If not, debris should be cut into sections no longer than 6" in length and spread thinly across the natural area. P/" 93 �t loo 21 v Site #O2�ckett Point Road, is a request Qlhindense stand of small and suppressed gDou las Firs. There are eight small trees growinggan overstory of mature Douglas Firs and a Madrone. Five of these suppressed tr are in poor condition, one a standing dead snag. These five are re uested to b removed i order to allow the remaining three larger and healthier Douglas Firs to grow mor t is my opinion that this is a beneficial course of action and will improve the overall health and stability of the remaining trees and the slope. p/, q 2, 0 Site #03 - 100 Viewpoint Lane, is a request CinDhe upper canopies of a pair of mature Douglas Firs that are leaning over the residence. The trees are in fair condition and can easily withstand pruning of 20% of the canopy mass with no adverse effects upon the health or stability of the trees. p/,l 93A Zoo `( to I did note that these trees are leaning over the residence and, though the trunks are not currently undercut by the natural erosion of the bluff behind the residences, they are approaching that condition within a few years' time. I encourage the owners to take thought for the eventual removal of these trees and replacement with more suitable vegetation. Site #04 - 120 Viewpoint Lane, is a reques �o move Madrone located on the slope behind the residence. This tree has been pruned multlp a Imes over the years and is in very poor condition and is leaning over the residence. The lower trunk of this tree is mostly decayed and the upper canopy is severely affected by Madrone leaf blight, a combination of bacterial and fungal pathogens that weaken the trees through yearly defoliation. I recommend this tree be removed and replaced with more suitable vegetation. p4tY 93% 200 (((�L-- Site #05 - 160 Viewpoint Lane, is a site that sustained damage this winter when unhealthy cedars fell onto the deck. Th ce ve since been remo . An examination of the decay in the cedar stump and old photos show these were clearly unhealthy and dying trees. WN 9-V 2C09 18 Qtr o ecommend that the now exposed slope where the Red Cedars formerly stood be planted wit more appropriate a vergreen native vegetation (other than Red Cedars as the Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olypen.com Page 7 of 31 pathogens that caused or accelerated the death of the previous tree are likely to still be present in the ground). This repl�ngzdllmitigate erosion on the exposed surfaces and provide new roots to bind the soils as the old Cedar roots decay. Regarding replanting on this slope; being a steep and north -facing seaside area, the number of native plants suitable to survive here is somewhat limited. For Sites #03 - #04, the challenge is compounded by being in the deep shade of an understory. It is my opinion that the best plants for these areas are evergreen natives such as sword fern for a groundcover, mahonia and ever reen uckleberry as mid -sized shrubs, and western yew as a smaff tree. Being evergreen is important because this is the most effective type of vegetation for interdicting driving rain, the most prominent cause of erosion on these steep slopes. Site #05 is a gentler slope and open to light so the choices of material are much greater. OBSERVATIONS, DISCUSSION, RECOMMENDATIONS (ODR): Site #01 - 490 Beckett Point Road - This is a pruning request to return a mature Douglas Fir to its previous condition. The tree has been topped in years prior, resulting in a disorganized mass of growth in the upper canopy. For several years these limbs have been re -growing into the established view corridor. From my visual observations the tree appears to be in good health and stability. Pruning of the canopy should not exceed 20% of the volume of the foliage. Because of the steepness of the slope in this area, pruned foliage should be removed if it can be done without scarring/disturbing the soil and dislodging existing vegetation. If removal cannot be done without causing damages, then the foliage should be cut into lengths no longer than 6" and spread thinly so it is in contact with the ground and the decay micro- organisms present there. It is important not to pile up dead vegetation that can serve as fuel to wildfires. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefleyoolypen.com Page 8 of 31 Photo to left was provided by Ms Heycke. I did observe this same tree on 04/10. The tree canopy color, density, and rate of growth indicate it is in fair to good health. Being a mature Douglas Fir (though on the "young side") it could sustain pruning of a maximum of 20% of canopy volume with no adverse affects to its health or stability. The removal of the single limb requested here is far below that maximum limit. Site #02 - 556 Beckett Point Road Site ,#02 is a request to thin a dense stand of "Suppressed" Douglas Firs (over -topped by larger neighboring trees) by removing the five least healthy of a stand of eight Suppressed Douglas Firs. One of these trees is a standing dead snag, and another has the upper 1/4 of the tree dead. These trees measure from 5" - 9" in diameter and are located below the canopy of larger Douglas Firs, one just visible on the left edge of the photo below, another whose canopy is visible on the right edge, and one Madrone pictured growing from the right lower corner to the upper center of the photo. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olypen.com Page 9 of 31 The cutting/removal of these five trees will not expose any additional ground to the erosive properties of rainfall because the remaining suppressed trees are those with the largest and healthiest canopy coverage, and these themselves are below the higher canopies of the two dominant Douglas Firs on either edge of the above photo. For this reason I do not propose planting more vegetation following the removals. Because of the steepness of the slope in this area, I recommend the removal of the trunks and foliage of the five suppressed trees if it can be done without scarring the slope or disrupting existing vegetation (do not drag them off the slope). If they cannot be removed without causing damage to the slope, then the trunks should be anchored against remaining tree trunks/stumps and the branches should be cut into pieces no larger than 6" in length and spread thinly throughout the area so most is in contact with the ground. This allows the material to decay more quickly, and it is important not to allow vegetative material to pile up and become possible fuel for wildfire. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley a olypen.com Page 10 of 31 The above photo shows the stand of "suppressed" Douglas Fir trees. The five slated for removal are the smallest. The tree farthest left (note orange arrow) has a dead top. The next tree to its right is a standing dead snag. The tree farthest right has been overtopped by the Madrone. The six central trees are growing in close proximity to one another. The removal of three will allow the remaining three to grow in a more full and healthy manner. One tree slated to remain is not visible in the photo above being behind the trunk of another in the foreground, Site #03 - 100 Viewpoint Lane - Site #03 is a request to prune two mature Douglas Firs to reduce the amount of debris that is falling onto the roof. These two trees are in fair condition and can be pruned up to 20% of the canopy mass without measurable adverse impacts on the health and stability of these trees. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olxpen.com Page 11 of 31 These trees are currently leaning over the residence, and though the natural erosion at the base of this bluff has not yet undercut these trees rendering them hazardous, that day is not too many years away. I do recommend the homeowner begin to plan for the eventual removal (or creating a living habitat tree or snag) for these two Douglas Firs. Site #04 - 120 Viewpoint Lane This homeowner is requesting the removal of a Madrone. Having briefly examined this Madrone, it is clearly rotted through the trunk and struggling to make it through. It has been pruned multiple times through the years and is suffering from the combination of bacterial and fungal pathogens that are defoliating so many Madrones in this area. This tree is likely to fall, and it is growing uphill and leaning over this residence making the possibility of damage to be 100%. This tree should be removed. Because this area is already covered by the canopies of larger trees farther up the slope and no new ground will be exposed, there is no reason to replace this tree with more suitable vegetation (though it wouldn't hurt...Western Sword Fern, Polystichum munitum, is always an excellent groundcover for challenging conditions.) Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - Lkbje EeyO- of en.com It M-1 i 4t Page 13 of 31 Site #05 - 160 Viewpoint Lane Photo to left provided by Christine Heycke. This shows the deck of 160 Viewpoint Lane shortly after a mostly dead cedar fell and damaged the property this past winter. When I visited in April 2019 the debris had been removed (next photo). Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@otypen.com Page 14 of 31 This is the same slope above 160 Viewpoint Lane after the fallen Western Red Cedar has been cleared away. There were signs of significant rot visible in the cedar tree stumps. Discussion - The removal of the mostly dead cedars on this portion of slope will protect the property in the short term but will also allow for more erosion on the bluff, eventually (possibly) destabilizing the ground higher up. Tree canopy is critical to protecting slopes, especially bare ground, from the erosive effects of rain, wind, and ground -water running down over the crest of the slope. The tree roots also provide a cohesive mat in the upper reaches of the soil to help stabilize them. The roots of the previous cedars are still mostly intact but they will decay and lose their cohesive properties over the next several years. This combination of slope exposure and root loss may work towards the detriment of slope stability. This can, however, be mitigated by planting more appropriate vegetation to cover this bare ground and eventually, as young trees develop, help anchor the soil. do not recommend putting in more Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata) at this time. There may still be root rotting pathogens present in this soil that will affect new seedlings, especially of that genus. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olvpen.com Page 15 of 31 For the short run, to protect the slope from the worst of erosive rain, I recommend western sword fern (Polystichum munitum). Purchase them in plugs or 4" pots and place them throughout the exposed area on 1' - 2' spacings. These will quickly grow and shield the ground. In other places, given that this is a north -facing slope in seaside conditions (a particularly harsh environment) you could plant some Western Yew (Taxus brevifolia), an evergreen conifer that grows to about 20' high and wide. There is another Western Yew located a few doors down on Viewpoint Lane, though it looks a little scruffy at the moment. Other small native trees/shrubs that may work here are Mountain Hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana), Evergreen Huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum), and Deer Fern (Blechnum spicant), and of course Salal and Oregon Grape (Gaultheria shallon and Mahonia repens). To disturb as little soil as possible it is best to purchase the plants in as small a size as available, and plants have a greater chance of success if planted in Fall when roots will continue to grow through the winter and so be more established and better able to withstand summer droughts. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkheft!U@otypen.com Page 16 of 31 WAIVER OF LIABILITY: Many factors affect a tree's health and stability that are not discernible in the course of a visual examination. My conclusions represent an opinion of a tree's health and stability at this particular point in time. This report does not guarantee the future safety of the trees or predict future events that may affect these trees. A second opinion by a qualified assessor is always recommended. The property owner is responsible for scheduling future examinations and/or recommended maintenance. The property owner is responsible for obtaining required permits from all concerned governing bodies from federal to state, county, city, and home owner associations. The property owner is responsible for obtaining and providing all applicable codes, covenants and restrictions (CC6tRs) that apply. The client shall hold the evaluator harmless for injuries or damages incurred if recommendations are not heeded or for acts of nature beyond reasonable expectations such as severe winds, excessive rain, heavy snow loads, ice, earthquakes etc. This report and all attachments, enclosures and references are confidential and intended for the use of the client referenced above. They may not be reproduced, used in any way or disseminated in any form without the consent of the client and Richard Hefley - Consulting Arborist. Richard R. Hefley Consulting Arborist 360-385-2921 rkhoflevc9olvDen.com PO Box 177 101 Renier Road Nordland WA 98358 Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rk4efley2ol=en.com Page 17 of 31 Appendices: Methods of Observation: Field observations are limited by the tools at hand. I may request that samples be taken and sent to a plant pathology laboratory for a more complete analysis. I assess trees for risk by first visually examining the foliage of the tree's crown. I will note: Foliage density or Crown Density (CD) - Wherever possible, I compare the density of the foliage of the examined tree with the density of the same species in the same, or similar, environments. If local examples are not available, I use my best judgment as to what the optimal density of the foliage of a particular species should be. I express the results as a percentage, using 100% as the optimal foliage density. In the case of deciduous trees examined during their dormancy, I will note the density and health of the past season's growth of twigs. Trees exhibiting signs of stress are typically less dense than healthy trees. Foliage color - Where possible, I compare the foliage color of the examined tree with the color of the same species in similar environments. If local examples are not available, I will use my best judgment of what the optimal color of a particular species should be at that particular time and location. Color is expressed as Good, Fair, or Poor. Trees under stress often exhibit Poor color, usually lighter than healthy trees. Live Crown Ratio (LCR) - The Live Crown Ratio is a measurement of the amount of living foliage of a tree expressed as a percentage of the tree's height. For example, if a tree is 100' high, and the first branches with live foliage begin at 75' high in the tree, the tree has a 25% Live Crown Ratio. Trees with 25% or less of a LCR (the ones that look like Q-Tips) are considered potential hazardous trees. Cones - Cones are the seed -bearing structures of conifers. A stressed tree will sometimes produce an inordinately large crop of cones (seeds). I will compare the amount of cones to that on the same species where available, or I will use my best judgment where the same species are not available. Deciduous trees may also produce extraordinarily large amounts of seeds in response to stresses. Epicormic Growth - This is foliage sprouts from dormant buds located along a trunk or limb, and is often a sign of stress in trees. The tree is attempting to increase the amount of foliage to counteract another stress, often damage to a root or vascular system that prohibits the tree from producing the optimal amount of nutrients it for survival. In conifers, epicormic growth is often manifested as needles sprouting on the trunk of the tree, giving the tree an almost "furry" appearance. Structurally Unsound Wood - Examples include multiple tops, multiple branches emanating from a single point, limbs growing at a tight angle to the trunk (typically less than 45 degrees), cracked or broken branches, and " included bark" (bark wedged between two trunks or limbs growing tightly together). Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefleyoolypen.com Page 18 of 31 I include spike knots in this category. This is a colloquial term used to describe a dead branch or leader, usually the result of breakage or pruning. These remaining knots have been observed by me to provide an entry for wood decay pathogens that facilitate a tree failure at that point. Rot - I look for signs of rot such as fungal growths, cracks, holes, swelling and excessive bleeding sap. This may extend to the excavation of soil around the roots, or examination of areas beneath bark for signs of disease. I may strike the trunk with a mallet to listen for the sounds of hollow or pithy wood. I may drill into the trunk of a tree if a significant hollow space is suspected, to confirm the amount of solid and unsound wood. I may take a core sample of the tree's wood using a 1 /8" increment borer. I will visually examine the Critical Root Zone (CRZ) of the tree. This is generally defined as a circle around the trunk of the tree, the radius in feet being equal to the diameter of the trunk in inches (a 10" diameter tree will have a CRZ with a radius of 10', or a 20' diameter). I measure the trees diameter at approximately 4.5' above the ground level using a caliper measuring tape. measure the trees approximate height using a clinometer where practical, or a visual approximation if necessary. I prefer to interview the owner or responsible person in charge of the project to ascertain the construction history of the site. I will look for the evidence of other tree failures in the immediate vicinity. This can sometimes help in confirming the presence of root rotting pathogens. I may mark examined trees with a numbered aluminum tags, or flagging tape. The history of the site is often the most important information gleaned from a field observation. To know when a site was developed, when and where trenching or subsequent construction has taken place, and to learn of potential new uses for the property are all crucial to forming a long-term plan to retain and improve the health of trees and shrubs on the site. When I am working with native stands dominated by mature conifers, it is useful to note the crown classification of individual trees. -Dominant and Co -Dominant trees have crowns that extend above all other vegetation. These are often, but not always, the strongest trees. -Intermediate trees have crowns which extend into the Dominant crown category, but are still lower and so receive less light. -Suppressed trees are overtopped by adjacent trees. Unless these suppressed trees are young and actively growing trees accustomed to shady conditions, such as Western Hemlock, Red Cedar or Vine Maple, these trees typically have short life spans. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefleyC�olynen.com Page 19 of 31 Tree Pruning Guide Click to view this downloadable PowerPoint presentation for information on tree pruning. Pruning • Limit at pianling lime to removing broken, crossing, rubbing branches, alleviating structure problem • Remove Basal sprouts • Encourage a central leader • Leave lower branches an the tree to stimulate root and trunk diarneier growth - Isader irrmo" y.._ ...... Y �V 6 cwh hark 6XII� y I>randr door br4l1011 i, •<< i i - 1 do" branch3i jtr Cl1t branch twHer Targetting the cut Cutting a small branch C B A A z '�' ;:t,;bra'rt4soclar i� Figr,n 8.3 Phm'ng prirxO6 N 6o ce A] v4mt;rr tk terb. N wand cut Al rcmaws lfx lamb, N i'iaal C%W f ) s]wrM be just whidc 16 branch rdlar to rrm" trti. res4iofo srrb. Drench bark ivbranch --Cut calar ar}d cut L- final cut Cutting a larger branch Common Pruning Mistakes • o not thin the tree to compensate for root loss • Clo not raise lower limbs, these will help add ghih to trunk and rgol growth • Pruning paints and seaters do nat proven' decay or promote rapid closure, not recommended • Pruning Flush culling branch back to trunk is incorrect, it wounds the trunk and causes decay - Make 1ha cut along branch collar, Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefleyoolypen.com Page 20 of 31 Coiled I r Correct „^•R• corrval: +t•s'r�lrl is l�•Irl:;azdaiKI Lkad hlalv_ti I%ro ldvd 1nnl ri d I , mark+ liai hr;t atm.r, hraixh rrltar Inaorred } f' Arnnr:h E�r�nrll r� ual>cl rnM Wrong: Wrong; Ina MI Wh M I I h Is keh atlrc inn? cad Is Inn 07nn III•sl ud `V• aI-I-1 Notes on Pruning: Pruning should be done in conformation to ANSI A300 Standards. When pruning trees, I recommend the woody debris be ground into chips or broken down into the smallest pieces possible, and distributed throughout the area beneath the tree canopy. This debris will break down and provide future nutrients for the remaining trees, as well as build up the soil layers and aid the mycchorizal organisms that live in the soil and are a critical part of water and nutrient uptake (yes, the soil is, literally, alive). Light pruning (10% or less of the live canopy) can be done any time of year. Heavy pruning is best left for winter months when trees are in their maximum state of dormancy. Pruning should never exceed 25% of a tree's canopy, though this amount can be modified depending on the tree's age, health and species. If pruning for safety reasons then the season should be discounted and pruning take place as soon as practical. It is best to have all safety pruning completed before the end of October, which generally is the commencement of our wind -storm season. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olxpen.com Page 21 of 31 Another viable option is to leave the branch stubs in place to serve as habitat for beneficial organisms, from fungi to mammals. This technique (or lack thereof) is being more and more encouraged by tree care professionals as it replicated what would be done naturally. In a similar vein, wood chips and debris are encouraged to be allowed to remain beneath the tree to decompose and serve as a source of mulch and nutrients for the tree. Effective Evergreen Plants for North Olympic Peninsula, leeward side. Because balancing the requirements for maintaining view corridors with the need to keep geologically vulnerable slopes vegetated leads to inevitable conflicts with property owners, an evolving list of native tree, shrub and groundcover plants is necessary. Evergreen trees and shrubs are particularly important because they transpire water during our wet winter months and the evergreen leaves interdict rainfall and wind which facilitate erosion. Plants will grow to different sizes depending on their microclimate, soil, and water availability. Pruning may be required to maintain a preferable size/shape. Conifers: Suitable conifers for view corridors include all dwarf cultivars/hybrids of our commonly grown native conifers - Abies grandis (Grand Fir), Calocedrus decurrens (Incense Cedar), Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas Fir), Thuja plicata (Western Red Cedar), Picea sitchensis (Sitka Spruce), Tsuga heterophylla (Western Hemlock), Pinus monticola (Western White Pine). However, these dwarf plants are fairly rare and therefore expensive, making them impractical for large-scale replantings. Easily available plants - Chamaecyparis nootkatensis Pendula, Weeping Alaskan Cedar - Shade, Pinus contorta, Shore Pine - Sun, Taxus brevifolia, Western Yew - Shade, Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olypen.com Page 22 of 31 Tsuga mertensiana, Mountain Hemlock - Sun, Part Shade - Evergreen - Arbutus menziesii, Pacific Madrone Sun will eventually grow to 50' high and wide and responds poorly to pruning (this is a marginal choice). Tall Shrubs - Arctostaphylus columbiana, Hairy Manzanita Sub Berberis aquifolium, Tall Oregon Grape- Sun/Shade Ceanothus thrysiflorus, Blue Blossom Sun/Shade Garrya elliptica, Coast Silktassel Sun/Shade Myrica californica, Coast Wax Myrtle Sun Rhododendron macrophyllum, Bigleaf Rhododendron Shade Umbellularia californicum, California Bay Laurel Shade Vaccinium ovatum, Evergreen Huckleberry Shade/Sun (will remain low in sun, 2-4', taller in shade, up to 6') Groundcovers- Polystichum munitum, Western Sword Fern - Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olypen.com Page 23 of 31 I list this plant first because it possesses every good characteristic required of a groundcover; it tolerates sun and shade, drought and damp, grows densely to prevent weeds from emerging, and is relatively inexpensive and easy to maintain. This is the perfect groundcover, regardless of the situation. Arctostaphylus uva ursi, Kinnikinnick- Sun Berberis nervosa, Low Oregon Grape Sun/Shade Festuca ovina, Blue Fescue Sun Fragaria chiloensis, Beach Strawberry Sun Gaultheria shallon, Salal Sun/Shade Slow to establish Juniperus communis, Western Juniper Sun NOTES on Planting Slopes - Slopes are most prone to erosion so replanting must be handled with care. It is most important to disturb as little soil as possible. When replanting recently cleared areas it is always best to plant seedlings as bare -root or from 4" pots. These can usually be inserted by poking a shallow hole into the ground. Watering new plants can add weight to the slope (water is heavy). It is always best to have a shallow depression around the base of each plant to catch available water rather than apply surplus water to slopes. Where tree seedlings are used it is helpful to install Tree Protection Tubes, a plastic tube that keeps the atmosphere around the leaves humid, collects rainwater and funnels it to the plant's root system, and also prevents foraging from animals with evil intentions. Timing is also important. These seedlings are best planted in the fall before our heavy winter rains set in. Roots will continue to grow well into the winter, and they should receive adequate irrigation from our naturally occurring rainfall. Having the roots better established over the course of a winter will make the plants more likely to survive the typical droughts of summer. Late September through mid -November are usually the best times, but weather is variable and slopes should not be worked on following heavy rains. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olypen.com Page 24 of 31 Notes on Habitat Trees - I often recommend that some trees slated for removal be retained as "Habitat Trees". These are essentially standing snags from 3' up to however high is deemed safe given the location of the tree. Snags are critical components of our ecosystem and provide food and shelter for wildlife and beneficial fungi. It should be assumed that the standing snag will eventually rot at the base and fall over after many years, so care should be taken to locate these `habitat trees' in a location unlikely to be frequented by people or damaging to property. If possible it is best to leave a jagged break where the tree trunk is cut. Not only does this look more natural, like a tree that has been snapped in high winds, but the jagged layers of wood provide increased habitat for beneficial organisms. Leaving logs remaining on the ground, especially alder logs, is another practice that is immensely beneficial to the native ecosystem. Nothing can duplicate the art of nature for creating Habitat Trees, whether a "Snag", the dead tree on the right, or the "Living Habitat Tree" on the left with only the top dead. These trees are habitat and shelter for beneficial fungi, insects, grubs, birds and mammals. Some arborists now argue that a failing tree serves more and greater ecological functions than an actively growing tree. I tend to agree. More detailed information is available from the Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife; bttp�]! fw.wa.gov/living/_snagsl Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkheftey@otypen.com Page 25 of 31 The following is from Washington State Dept of Fish and Wildlife. Snags - The Wildlife Tree The Importance of Snags in Your Neighborhood Dead Wood Brings New Life Hard to believe, but trees can actually provide more habitats for wildlife dead than when they are alive. Standing dead and dying trees, called "snags" or "wildlife trees," are important for wildlife in both natural and landscaped settings, occurring as a result of disease, lightning, fire, animal damage, too much shade, drought, root competition, as well as old age. Birds, small mammals, and other wildlife use snags for nests, nurseries, storage areas, foraging, roosting, and perching. Live trees with snag -like features, such as hollow trunks, excavated cavities, and dead branches can provide similar wildlife value. Snags occurring along streams and shorelines eventually may fall into the water, adding important woody debris to aquatic habitat. Dead branches are often used as perches; snags that lack limbs are often more decayed and, may have more and larger cavities for shelter and nesting. Snags enhance local natural areas by attracting wildlife species that may not otherwise be found there. All trees of all sizes are potential snags. Unfortunately, many wildlife trees are out down without much thought to their wildlife value or of the potential management options that can safely prolong the existence of the tree. Wildlife trees offer a one -stop, natural habitat feature. In short, snags "live on" as excellent wildlife trees for all to enjoy! DOWNLOAD PDF VERSION 9.5 Mb Wood duck ducklings plunging from their nest cavity in a tree. This is normal behavior for wood ducks when leaving the nest cavity which can be anywhere between 6 to 15 feet above ground and almost always above water into which they fall. Photo Credit: Mike Lentz Images N. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@otypen.com Page 26 of 31 iRed squirrel poking out of a den tree savoring a nut dropped by a passerby. Central Park, New York City. Photo Credit: -.i i i,:• ) ;,:.: Wildlife That Use Snags West of the Cascade Mts 39 species of birds and 14 species of mammals depend on tree cavities for their survival. East of the Cascades 39 bird species and 23 mammal species depend on these snags (Pederson, USDA Forest Service). In total, more than 100 species of birds, mammals, reptiles, and amphibians need snags for nesting, roosting, shelter, denning, and feeding (Bottorff, WSU, Snohomish Co. Ext); nearly 45 species alone forage for food in them. Hollow snags and large knot -holes are used by many species of mammals such as squirrels, marten, porcupine, and raccoons. In winter when snow covers the ground, northern flickers and other common backyard wildlife depend heavily on insects and other foods found in snags. Brown creepers, bats, and other small animals will roost behind loose bark and bark slits for winter warmth and shelter. Hollow snags are very valuable in winter as they are used by many species such as squirrels, raccoons, owls, and bear for denning and roosting. Large snags more than 12 inches in diameter and 15 feet tall offer ideal hunting perches for hawks, eagles, and owls. They function as resting perches for swallows, band -tailed pigeons, mourning doves and other birds; food storage areas for mice, squirrels, woodpeckers, and jays; and song perches for tanagers and flycatchers. Woodpeckers use large dead tree trunks as a way to announce their presence during courtship, hammering their bills against the tree's resonating surface. Small snags may be used as song posts by bluebirds, hummingbirds, and other songbirds to attract mates and proclaim nesting territories. This high use of snags by a myriad of species underscores the importance of preserving snags and including them in your landscape. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefleyeolypen.com Page 27 of 31 on photo to enlarge Live aspen snag "condominium." These trees have many nesting cavities excavated by at least three species of woodpeckers. In the tree on the left, the largest rectangular hole is a pileated woodpecker nest in which the pileateds were seen nesting; the top cavity just under the greenery was excavated and used by northern flickers; smaller nest cavities were excavated by red-naped sapsucker and also used by black -capped chickadee and house wren for nesting. Look for small nest holes in the tree on the right also. Photo Credit: Patricia Thompson Dead TreeNVildlife Condo You can see where wildlife finds food and shelter if you look carefully at a snag: • A snag harbors many insects that are food for wildlife. The outer surface of the bark is where birds such as brown creepers, nuthatches, and woodpeckers eat bark beetles, spiders, and ants. • The inner bark is where woodpeckers eat larvae and pupae of insects. Mammals such as raccoon and black bear may tear into these areas of snags to harvest the protein-rlch insects. • The heartwood is where strong excavators such as the pileated woodpecker prey upon carpenter ants and termites. ' The space between partially detached bark and the tree trunk is where nuthatches, winter wrens, and brown creepers roost or search for food. Pacific tree frogs, several species of bats, and many butterflies also find shelter there. Trees that make the best snags. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley(@otypen.com Page 28 of 31 Click photo to enlarge Hard and Soft Snags. The snag with the abundant nest cavities and foraging evidence is a soft snag that has been used for many years. This photo was taken four years after the flat -top trees were created" from live Douglas fir; they have barely started the decay process yet woodpeckers are beginning to work them. Photo Credit: Patricia Thompson Hard and Soft Snags A snag habitat begins to form when a large tree dies and forms a "Hard Snag." As this hard snag decays it gradually becomes a "Soft Snag." A partially or recently dead tree is a hard snag. Hard snags tend to have their bark intact while the heartwood (the non -living inner core) and sapwood (the younger, softer, growing wood between the bark and heartwood) are still firm. These kinds of snags are good for cavity excavating birds. A soft snag has considerable decay in its heart and sapwood. Fungi infiltrate the heartwood and the tree becomes soft or hollow in the center. A soft snag rarely has limbs, and its top may be missing. Over the years, a soft snag gets shorter as weather and animal activity weakens it. Eventually it falls over and continues to provide important food and shelter on the ground. Tree Species. Snags of both deciduous trees (those that shed leaves in winter) and conifer trees (evergreens) are used by wildlife The most favored snag species east of the Cascades are: ponderosa pine, western larch, quaking aspen, and paper birch; west of the cascades Douglas fir and western red cedar snags are highly favored and big -leaf maple and cottonwood are also used. Softwood trees such as fir tend to make better food foraging trees, while hardwood trees are sometimes better for nesting cavities. Nevertheless, just about any species of snag tree will be used by wildlife. Tree Size. Small trees rot rapidly, creating wildlife habitat. Black -capped chickadees nest in snags as small as six feet tall and four inches in diameter. The large conifers such as cedar, fir, larch, and pine, tend to rot more slowly than do deciduous trees such as alder, birch, and cherry. However, large deciduous trees such as cottonwoods, big -leaf maples, and oaks can last many years as snags. Moreover, while alive, they tend to develop cavities in their bulky and dead branches and trunks. Decay. The best snags for cavity -nesters are those with hard sapwood (between bark) and decayed heartwood (inner core) making them hard on the outside and soft in the middle. The hard sapwood provides protection from predators and insulation against weather, while the softened heartwood allows easy excavation deep into the snag. Many birds avoid very soft snags for nesting because extremely soft wood can be wet or crumbly. Strong primary excavators, such as the pileated woodpecker and northern flicker, occasionally select living trees with decayed heartwood because they can penetrate through the sound layer of sapwood and excavate the nest cavity in the soft heartwood. Generally, the sapwood remains fairly intact and forms a shell surrounding the decaying heartwood. The excavated interior may remain useable for many years by many species. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkheftWolypen.com Page 29 of 31 Northern flicker in the process of excavating its nest cavity. Note the wood chips flying. The Woodpecker - Cavity Creator Woodpeckers such as the northern flicker create new cavities in snags and are thus referred to as "primary cavity nesters." They have thick-walled skulls supported by powerful neck muscles, and a beveled, chisel -like bill. A woodpecker's strong, grasping feet with sharp, curved nails form a triangular base for support in the vertical position along with specially adapted tail feathers. The woodpecker's barb -tipped tongue and sticky saliva help it get insects from deep crevices. Unlike other cavity -nesting birds, woodpeckers rarely use nest boxes because they are biologically conditioned to dig their own cavities: the physical motions of cavity excavation stimulate reproduction. Woodpeckers excavate several holes each year and rarely nest in the same one in consecutive years, thus creating many cavities for secondary cavity nesters such as bluebirds, tree and violet -green swallows, chickadees, nuthatches, house wrens, wood ducks, squirrels, and owls who cannot excavate cavities themselves. Secondary cavity nesting wildlife are highly dependent upon the availability of these abandoned nest cavities. Snags in Your Landscape Try to incorporate one or more snags into your landscape keeping old and damaged trees when possible. Retain trees and tall shrubs near the planned snag to protect it from wind and provide a healthier environment for wildlife. In urban areas, tall snags are best located away from high activity areas, where they won't pose a hazard if they fall. Trees that lean away or are downhill from structures and other areas of human activity present little or no risk. Ways to tell a future snag: • Sap runs, • Splits in the trunk, • Dead main limbs, • Fungi on the bark. • Evidence of animal use, such as woodpecker holes. Cedar snag with top burned out by homeowner adds an interesting and striking feature to this backyard landscape. Photo Credit: Russell Link Photo Credit: Russell Link Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley@olypen.com Page 30 of 31 Also, note any trees you may want to make into a snag including: • Hazard trees --for example, one with a forked top, weak wood, or disease, • A shade tree in an area where you want sun, ' A tree with invasive roots threatening a drainage or septic system, • A tree in a group that needs thinning out, • A tree in an area where there aren't any snags. Because individual snags may have only one wildlife habitat feature (perch, cavity, etc.), retaining and promoting small clumps of snags throughout a larger property is more likely to provide all of these features. Small dead ornamental and fruit trees can be left in the landscape where they are not a safety hazard because they will be used as perches for preening, resting, foraging, and singing. Creating Snags from Live Trees A professional arborist creates an alder tree snag giving it a natural -looking jagged top. You must hire a professional to create these tall snags. It is unwise to attempt this yourself. Photo Credit: Russell Link Any snag you provide for wildlife will likely be used. You can even create one from a live tree. Branches or trunk you remove can be added to a brush shelter. Remember, a tree can provide habitat even when just part of it dies. For instance, if a large conifer has a fork in it, you can girdle one of the forks creating an excellent perch. If the trunk of this tree is large enough in diameter, a future cavity may develop as the perch limb dies. In addition, if the tree is not dying after the side branches and top have been removed, some individual side branches can be girdled to create perches and help the tree decline, There are several methods for creating snags (See Fig. 1): • Remove the top third of the tree and half the remaining side -branches. • Leave the top the way it is and remove a majority of the tree's side -branches. • Leave the top and sides as they are and girdle the trunk. • Girdle the branches. Always hire an expert tree service to remove branches and tops of large trees. Make sure that whoever does the work is licensed, bonded, and insured, and understands your intention to make a wildlife tree. Many certified arborists with the International Society of Arboriculture specialize in wildlife tree creation and maintenance. Check with your local chapter. Removing the top third of the tree and half the remaining side branches. This method ensures that the tree begins the preferred inside -out decay process, premium sites for cavity -nesting birds. Leave some shortened branches at the top for perches and make the snag look natural by creating a jagged top (Fig. 1). Ajagged top also provides an avenue for fungi infection and other rot -causing organisms. Water and bird feces will collect and speed decay. Sow bugs, earwigs, and other invertebrates will find their way in and assist in the decay process. Leaving the top intact and remove about 314 of the tree's side -branches. Douglas fir, hemlock, and pine respond well to this technique Western red cedar is a tough conifer to kill in this way, but it makes an excellent snag because it is extremely wind - resistant and long-lasting. Keep branch ends jagged and more susceptible to microorganisms and fungi, and more natural looking. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - rkhefley�ol�en.com Page 31 of 31 Figure 1. Ways to create a snag from a live tree. A jagged top and shortened branches at the top give the snag a more natural look and speed the process of decay, (Draw)ng by Jenifer Rees) Leave the top and sides as they are and girdling the trunk. Least preferred method. Girdling creates a dead but intact top, providing a taller snag, but leaves it more susceptible to breaking at the wound site. Girdling tends to cause a tree to rot from the outside in, instead of the preferred inside -out. As a result, by the time the rot has progressed far enough for woodpeckers to excavate a cavity, the tree has become fragile and may easily fall in a windstorm. Furthermore, a cavity in a girdled tree may not be safe because the hole is likely to be shallow, which exposes young to weather and predators. To girdle a tree, remove a four -inch belt of inner and outer bark around the trunk which stops the movement of water and nutrients. If girdling is done at breast height and the tree falls, this leaves very little remaining snag habitat. Therefore, try to make the girdling cut as high up as possible. Big -leaf maple, aspen, and poplar may send up sprouts, which can be removed or left to grow around the tree as temporary cover. Some tree species, alder for example, are difficult to kill even when properly girdled. A tree girdled in winter may not show signs of decline until well into spring, after it has used its stored energy. Roosting Slits L Brown creeper on a snag with visible roosting slits. Richard R. Hefley - Consulting Arborist - 360-385-2921 - r of e l J\ I' - OzA�6qk c. OL"%w rfeJ Beckett Point Tree Trimming/Removal Application Location of Subject Trees Drain Field AV" Site #1 Douglas Fir The adjacent homeowner would like have the canopy of this previously topped tree trimmed. Site #5 This request was to trim and/or remove rotted cedars, however one of the trees fell across the homeowner's Zeck, s immediately as an emergency measure. Thpe will =erep=lantelTbased on recommendation the arborist's report.