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HomeMy WebLinkAbout2021 West End Natural Resources News (APRIL)Inside: 01 Family Life........................1 02 Love & the Virus ..........1,6 03 Teaching from Home .....7 04 Floodplain Spruce .........8 05 Hoh River .......................10 06 Quileute School ...........13 07 Biochar ...........................15 08 Seagrass........................19 09 Hoko Garden .................22 NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 1 WEST END NATURAL RESOURCES NEWS A publication of the North Pacifi c Coast Marine Resources Committee (NPC MRC) & NPC Lead Entity for Salmon Recovery Issue No. 13 April 2021 02. (Continued Inside on Page 6...) Love in the Time of Coronavirus By Rebekah Brooks, Rebekah Brooks Contracting 01. (Continued Inside on Page 2...) One Family’s Life in the Upper Hoh River Valley By Roger M. Oakes, Retired Physician and Peninsula Resident As a teenager living in Tacoma, Hal Landry was working three jobs. He had a paper route, set bowling pins at night and had a shoe shine kit. So, when he moved with his family to the Hoh River Valley at age 15, he had little trouble adjusting to rising at 4:30 am for morning chores, including milking three cows, before riding a school bus twenty miles to school in Forks, only to return home and do it all again. Community Haying. H.E. Landry, left, and Karl Fischer with helpers. Photo: Courtesy of Ken Landry Collection Karen Huber and Rebekah Brooks reach Cape Alava in August 2020. Photo: Karen Huber On our fi rst day, they passed us on our way into the backcountry... Seventy if he was a day, he rolled down the car window and said: “You gals going camping? How is it out there?” “Yes,” I said, “but I haven’t been there in a number of years.” “Thirty for us!” he replied. “But we’re hoping to do the same.” We hit the boardwalk trail inspired, forgetting at times that we are in a plague year. That is, until we would pass another hiker and all don masks. You, fellow hiker, I will love from a distance. 2 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER Aerial image of the Upper Hoh community in 1947. Photo: Courtesy Ken Landry CollectionThe Landrys in 1956. Standing: Rick, Harold (H.E.), Hal, Ken. In front: Barbara with child, Helen. Photo: Courtesy Ken Landry Collection “The sooner you got after the work, the sooner you were fi nished.” In retrospect, he says, “I wouldn’t trade it for anything. It taught me not to be afraid of hard work. It was a hard life, but a healthy one.” The Landry family moved to the Hoh Val- ley in August 1947. Harold Edward (“H.E.”) Landry, reportedly without much consulta- tion with his wife, Helen, or his children, decided to take up an offer from his uncle, Karl Fischer, to move to Karl’s homestead with the idea of eventually acquiring the 160-acre riverfront property located about six miles up the Valley from Highway 101, just east of the old Hoh Store, along the road to Olympic National Park. Karl Fischer (1876 - 1965) and his brother, Fred (1874 - 1930), were German immi- grants, who after serving in the U.S. Army during the Spanish-American War, were dis- charged at Bremerton and in 1908 became homesteaders on the Upper Hoh River. In those days, ‘arriving’ on the Hoh was no easy matter. There were no roads or bridges. Travel was by foot, horseback or dugout canoe. Karl “proved up” his claim and the deed to his 160-acre homestead was granted in 1912. Fred’s place was about four miles further up river, a place eventu- ally acquired by Charles Lewis. Karl, or Two-Hats as he was known, be- came somewhat of a legend on the Hoh. He managed to make a living by farming his ‘stump ranch’, cougar bounty hunting, bootlegging, and selling off pieces of land. His two hats were a well-known part of his dress and the stories are numerous as to their wearing. As Karl aged it became increasingly diffi cult to care for livestock, mend fences and maintain the many structures he had built over the years. He sought help from his nephew, H.E. Landry, and a deal was struck. H.E. Landry agreed to take on this challenge even though he was a machinist with no practical farm- ing experience. Described as generally well-informed, he held strong opinions and was not afraid to speak his mind. Being outspoken and opinionated led to his being generally disliked in the Forks community. His struggles were just beginning. When he decided to move the family to Uncle Karl’s place in August 1947, there were three children (Hal, Barbara and Ken) and his wife, Helen, was eight months pregnant. Richard (“Rick”) Landry was born 1 (...Continued from Front Cover) One Family’s Life in the Upper Hoh River Valley By Roger M. Oakes, Retired Physician and Peninsula Resident NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 3 Aerial image of the Upper Hoh community in 1947. Photo: Courtesy Ken Landry CollectionThe Landrys in 1956. Standing: Rick, Harold (H.E.), Hal, Ken. In front: Barbara with child, Helen. Photo: Courtesy Ken Landry Collection in September in Forks, thereby becoming the only family member to be born on the Olympic Peninsula, and to begin his life on the Upper Hoh. As Rick notes, “The original two-story ranch house the Landrys were relocated to was an austere, uninsulated dwelling with a wide porch and attached woodshed; the house preceded electricity’s arrival on the Hoh and was without running water. A wood stove served to supply warmth and was used for cooking. Lighting at night was managed with kerosene and white gas lamps and their delicate mantles. The ‘bath- room’ was an outhouse 50 yards away.” He adds, “In hindsight, it was likely an ideal- ism bordering on the Utopian which initially convinced H.E. Landry that he could make a living farming here, in a valley which had a very short growing season and received an average of 140 inches of rainfall annu- ally. His wife was against the whole idea from the beginning. They had never farmed or really gardened prior to this, but were caught up in the excitement of this fresh beginning. They would further supplement their needs and sustain themselves through the ethos of “living off the land,”; e.g., hunting elk and deer and fi shing for salmon and steelhead.” As son Ken, says, “Homesteading 101 does not come with a manual! The learning curve for both H.E. and Mother was something that had to be taught by ‘hands on’ see one and do one by Karl. H.E. learned how to milk three cows by hand twice a day, how to harness and control a team of two cranky draft horses (a tractor came much later) to pull the farm implements. There were several acres of vegetables to harvest, preserve and store, some being sold in town. Meat was stored in refrigeration lock- ers in Forks. Naming some of the cows led to an aversion to slaughtering them, making the family more dependent on pigs and wild game. Hal says, “we couldn’t eat Ferdinand!” Through this early time Karl was an able advisor. Ken and Rick both recall that Karl was a good “coach,” teaching them how to fi sh and hunt. As Karl’s health failed, the farming skill inadequacies of H.E. became more glaring and things began to deterio- rate. Animals were sold off and some of the land was logged. Karl had previously sold pieces of land to the Frakers, the Crippens and perhaps the Amsdills. 4 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER The Landry family moved into Karl Fischer’s house and he lived in an attached area. The house, shown here in 1947, burned in 1951. Photo: Courtesy Ken Landry Collection Karl (‘Two Hat’) Fischer, Upper Hoh Pioneer age 77 in 1953, arrived in the Hoh Valley in 1908. Photo: Courtesy Ken Landry Collection ? “The sooner you got after the work, the sooner you were fi nished.” In retrospect he says, “I wouldn’t trade it for anything . . . Ken, Harold (H.E.), and Helen Landry in 1953. Photo: Courtesy Ken Landry Collection Life became one of considerable poverty. The Fischer homestead or “stump ranch” was really a subsistence farm that rather quickly failed to support the family. There was never much money in the bank and then the barn roof collapsed during a heavy snow in the winter of 1949-50. H.E. and son, Hal, were in the barn and tried to use timber jacks to keep the walls from pushing apart, but the central section of the two-pitched, “mansard” roof collapsed. They were able to salvage some hay, but lost 4 cows. They also ran out of fi rewood that winter and resorted to hunting elk to avoid starvation. Then came the house fi re in 1951! On October 6th, the house burned while the family was in Forks at the movie theatre. By the time a fi re engine arrived the house was completely destroyed. The cause of the fi re was never determined. The family dog, Buster, was lost. H.E. Landry’s handwritten journal was succinct: Oct. 6, 1951 – “The House burns.” Their next home was a skid house purchased from a logging company. This was a 20’ x 40’ saw fi ling shed that they remodeled. There was no inside plumb- ing, only creek water, no electricity and only wood heat. Subsequently, a party-line phone, a propane tank, a gas stove and refrigerator arrived. It was in these spartan conditions that the four Landry children were to experience their youth, learn about life, hard work and family dynamics. The eldest, Hal, has fond memories and seemed to relish the hard work. He was essential to the farming effort and when he left for the Navy, his father was left without his right-hand man. He had also been sup- porting the family with income from a job at a local shake mill. With Hal’s departure, the chores fell to Barbara and Ken. Barbara considered joining the Navy with her friend, Joy Fraker, but she got married instead and enjoyed a full life in Forks. For Ken, it was not a place he could really appreciate. He recalled family tensions and the endless chores that his mother endured. While it was a beautiful place, the harsh realities of existence there made it diffi cult to appreci- ate the wild, scenic beauty. He also left for the Navy, went to dental school and retired as a Navy Captain. Of the four children, Richard (“Rick”) had the longest experience on the Hoh and expresses the strongest sentiment about the nature, rhythms and cycles of the land. NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 5 The Landry family moved into Karl Fischer’s house and he lived in an attached area. The house, shown here in 1947, burned in 1951. Photo: Courtesy Ken Landry Collection ?Ken, Harold (H.E.), and Helen Landry in 1953. Photo: Courtesy Ken Landry Collection It taught me not to be afraid of hard work. It was a hard life, but a healthy one.” — Hal Landry He recalls “its mosses, the sound the river makes during high water, the ferns and the devil’s club, eating huckleberries, eating salmon, following fresh elk trails on the bench north of the homestead, inventing games in the hay mow while it rained for days on end, listening to the wind through the maple leaves - mainly being still and being THERE.” He recalls riding his bike to favorite fi shing spots on Willoughby Creek, Rock Creek and occasionally all the way up to Tower Creek. But he also remembers extreme poverty, the harsh conditions and being stunned when he learned how others lived in better conditions. Rick also joined the Navy, became a Marine Corps corpsman and served in Vietnam. He vividly recalls returning to the Hoh in 1970. “By the time I passed the Hoh store and coasted into my Dad’s driveway, the extent of the logging scarifi cation simply stunned me.” He says, “I had survived but the Hoh had become a casualty.” Life was diffi cult for early settlers on the Hoh. For Helen Landry it was living a nightmare. She was an urbanite thrown into a stark existence she did not choose and hated every minute of it. Social life was almost non-existent. She did have one close friend, Lorna Robinson. Community activities were limited to occasional softball games, groups getting hay into barns and fi reworks on the 4th of July. Helen fi nally left her husband in 1962, abruptly moving to Forks with her youngest child, Rick. She later remarried and passed away in 1981. H.E. Landry spent the last 15 years of his life living alone in the skid house he remodeled many years before. He suffered a number of strokes and passed away in 1977. This article is written with the deepest respect for the Landry family, what they experienced on the Hoh, and what we can all learn from their struggles as settlers in a challenging place. When we now speak of ‘resiliency’ in our current project on the Hoh, we can refl ect on the degree to which that word fi ts what they all learned and achieved there. [Author’s note: This article is based on extensive communications with Hal, Ken and Rick Landry. The author thanks them for openly sharing their thoughts and experiences]. Love (for humanity). On our second day, we passed them on our way to fi lter the tannin-brown water from the creek. She was slouched in a red walker and he was on his knees blowing up a sleeping pad. Radiant with love for her, with love for the trail, he told his story of recovery, of hiking, of family, to anyone who stopped by their campsite. We reveled that day in the grit of the sand, the barking of the sea lions, the uneven footholds among the rocks and tide pools, the toasted salt smell of the driftwood beach fi re, the accumulation of grime under our fi ngernails. In the stark immediacy of being outdoors, to the exclusion of everything else. “Mother Nature is doing just fi ne,” as a friend told me. “It’s only us people who are having a hard time with COVID-19.” You, world, I will love with as much immersion as possible. Love endures (in and for the world). On our third day, we passed them one more time. After exploring the petroglyphs at Wedding Rocks. After mulling over the impact of humankind etching ourselves onto our environments. We rounded the point and found her limping down the beach on his arm, the son-in-law (we guessed) supporting her other side. The daughter (we supposed) shuttled packs, a red walker strapped to one. We stopped. Because bearing witness to such dogged love is arresting. It had taken them many hours to come two miles, and they had another mile to go before they reached camp. We marveled. And then we noticed the black bear that had ambled down from the woods to dig in the piles of kelp, barely twenty feet away from them. Hikers in front of us stopped. Hikers behind us stopped. We all waited. To watch two men lift this woman down the beach, with painstaking slowness, right in front of the black bear scratching its belly. The bear rubbed its nose and meandered back into the woods. The two men delivered their lady to a beach log for another rest. The hikers returned to their slogs along the rocky beach. We fi nished hiking the loop hike out of the backcountry, blisters and heavy packs put into perspective: the virus will pass. But we will continue to love. You, black bear, I will love from a distance of more than six feet! Because love endures forever. 6 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER The petroglyphs at Wedding Rocks, from our hike back out on Day 3. Photo: Karen Huber 2 (....Continued from Front Cover) Love in the Time of Coronavirus By Rebekah Brooks, Rebekah Brooks Contracting NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 7 The petroglyphs at Wedding Rocks, from our hike back out on Day 3. Photo: Karen Huber On August 4th, 2020, sixteen teachers from seven school dis- tricts gathered together remotely for the fi rst online version of the annual Ocean Science Workshop presented by educators Nicole Harris, from Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary, and Julie Tennis, from Pacifi c Education Institute. Each year, OSW work- shops train teachers in a new marine science curriculum that they can share with their stu- dents. Normally the workshops are hands-on and fi eld-based. This year’s pandemic restrictions meant the teachers would be learning from home and their students likely would be too. Fortunately, the curriculum is versatile and can also be used in person. This project was funded by an NPC MRC grant. Our workshop, Healthy Ocean, Healthy You, introduced teach- ers to a new learning task called “Ocean Benefi ts”, a mini-research project which asks students to 1) Describe how the ocean provides jobs for the economy, 2) Explain which resource was most helpful to you in understanding the ocean benefi ts that we enjoy; and 3) Defend this statement using information from two of the sources: “The ocean benefi ts humans, and humans can benefi t the ocean.” The students are then asked to write an essay explaining the ways in which humans benefi t from a healthy ocean, and the actions we can take to keep it healthy. Participants also gathered real-time data about air temperature, cloud cover, and wind speed at their own location and three other places in the state on each day of the workshop. They used this information to make and defend a factual claim – in this case, about the ocean’s infl uence on weather. The workshop included independent investigations as well. The fi rst was to perform an “ocean audit.” The teachers scoured their homes, looking for artifacts and ingredients with origins in the sea. They researched the origin and purpose of each item or constituent. The materials ranged from vacation artifacts like seashells to carrageenan, to the cottage cheese in their fridge (from red algae). One of the participants said, “I ended up getting online and looking for additives to household supplies, and ended up going through the pantry and fi nding more ocean-based products in Worcestershire Sauce and things like that and in different foods. I knew it would be in certain foods but yogurt kind of surprised me!” In the second “fi eld” activity, the students replicated a tide pool visit on dry land with the assistance of the pill bug, or roly-poly. (Did you know the roly-poly is a crustacean? It’s not a bug – it is related to crabs and shrimp, and it even has gills!) They fi rst hypothesized where roly-polys might live in their yards. After the workshop session, they searched for the animal and created a fi eld journal page noting their observations. This workshop also connected teachers to some of the science, culture, and careers in our region. Jenny Waddell from Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary discussed the rocky intertidal studies that are occurring along the Strait and Outer Coast. Jon Scordino, from Makah Fisheries depart- ment, presented on the student-inspired Cibu’d Project, where students and scientists and other members of the community designed and tested this Indigenous halibut hook in commercial and recreational fi sheries. Many teachers look forward to future fi eld trips. “I would love to do a rocky intertidal fi eld investigation with my students in the spring as a culmination of everything that they have learned during the school year about ecosystems. I would also like the fi eld investigation to include a beach clean-up.” “Thank you again for the work you both do. Every summer, these are my favorite classes.” “My favorite parts were the investigations. They got me involved and I can see how to use them with my students.” “I would like to have more information about scientists in the area who might be available for my students to chat with.” — 2020 OSW participants 03. Teaching Ocean Science from Home By Julie Tennis, Pacifi c Education Institute Julie Tennis, Nicole Harris, and teachers from across the Coast make the best of diffi cult circumstances with a combination of online learning and independent backyard fi eld studies. 8 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER On or about December 8th, 2020 at our historic ranch along the southern shore of the Hoh River, an old and cherished Sitka spruce lost its footing during a minor highwater event. The turbulent river, running just under 5,000 cubic feet per second, eroded the bank and around the roots until the tree lost its balance, twisted and fell, severing several enormous roots that still held fast to the ground. It was a unique tree and it was enjoyed by our family, our cattle, and countless generations of bald eagle hatchlings and their parents over the decades. The eagle nest was always two-thirds of the way down from the top and every year the birds added new branches and grass in readiness for new hatchlings. I’ve enjoyed watching them myself for more than forty years. No one in the family ever suggested taking down that spruce tree or the remaining one that grew right next to it. The eagles haven’t seemed to like that one for some reason, but we hope their opinion of it will change and the tree will continue to thrive long into the future. The spruce once looked out to the north over state land adjacent to the 160-acre homestead and to a gravel road and bridge that were built in the 1940s to transport spruce and cedar across the river to the Upper Hoh Road. Huelsdonk Campground was located near the southern end of the bridge, and there were picnic tables and outhouses. It washed away in the late 1970s along with the bridge. The road survived until 1989, when the river took that, also. For many years, people who had enjoyed the campground as kids returned as adults looking for it and wound up, confused, at the ranch. They wanted their kids to enjoy camping there too. Craig Fletcher and I were married out there. 04. Refl ections on the Changing Floodplain from an Historic Hoh River Ranch By Jean Fletcher, Fletcher Ranch Landowner (Huelsdonk Homestead) The tree toppled into the river on or about December 8, 2020. Photo: Raena Anderson, 10,000 Years Institute Roots, some nearly two feet in diameter, remain locked to the soil. Even the mighty Hoh River must fi nd its way around the tree’s enormous base. Photo: Raena Anderson, 10,000 Years Institute NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 9 To the east, was pastureland and a huge buffer of vintage maple trees and old growth spruce along the river, but now only half of the pasture remains. The famous Iron Man, John Huelsdonk, had put cables around the healthy big maple trees on the homestead and tied downed logs to the trees. That worked well to curb erosion for a very long time, and up until the 1990s there were deep groves of mature spruce and maple trees from Owl Creek to the South Fork of the Hoh River. Through the years, the river knocked down trees and has made it diffi cult to fi nd that road anymore. All that’s left of the logging road now is a big culvert that needs to be removed. The mainstem river now fl ows where the road and the big trees once were. [Eagle update: As of mid-April, just one eagle has been spotted perching in the the surviving tree. Normally they would begin nesting by this time.] The tree toppled into the river on or about December 8, 2020. Photo: Raena Anderson, 10,000 Years Institute Roots, some nearly two feet in diameter, remain locked to the soil. Even the mighty Hoh River must fi nd its way around the tree’s enormous base. Photo: Raena Anderson, 10,000 Years Institute Approaching the remnants of the river’s once extensive forested buffer, a large big leaf maple and the distant two ancient spruces. The maple and one of the spruces fell in December 2020. Photo: Tami Pokorny 10 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER Setting off to fl oat and study the Middle Hoh River and fl oodplain in September 2020. Photo: Tami Pokorny Smoke from western wildfi res lingered heavily over the valley on September 29, 2020. Photo: Tami Pokorny Dynamic natural change in the Middle Hoh River valley has always been a part of this ecosystem and a driving force for its rich biologic diversity, productivity and beauty. Increasingly, however, the frequency and severity of channel and fl oodplain changes are causing hardship and expense for people. At risk also is the habitat quality and abundance needed to help sustain wild native fi sh populations, especially as the climate warms. A collaborative, pro-active approach to ecosystem and community resiliency is needed to get ahead of problems and expand options and opportunities beyond emergency- based responses. Jefferson County Public Health, with the generous assistance of the Hoh Tribe and other steering committee members, is developing resiliency and action plans for the Middle Hoh River Valley. The plans will recognize and build upon the work of countless people who have, over decades and centuries, dedicated themselves to caring for the river, maintaining access to cherished traditions and experiences, and sharing stories of the watershed. Fund- ing for the project is from a Washington Coast Restoration and Resiliency Initiative (WCRRI) program grant through the Recreation and Conservation Offi ce. Over the past several months, scientists with consultants Natural Systems Design (NSD) and Cramer Fish Sciences have gathered relevant scientifi c information from the literature and existing databases. They evaluated shoreline vegetation, collected sediment measurements, 05. Middle Hoh River Resiliency Planning Underway By Tami Pokorny, Jefferson County Public Health The capture of side channels by the mainstem river in recent decades has produced extensive gravel bars where mature fl oodplain forests formerly stood. Photo: Tami Pokorny NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 11 Setting off to fl oat and study the Middle Hoh River and fl oodplain in September 2020. Photo: Tami Pokorny Smoke from western wildfi res lingered heavily over the valley on September 29, 2020. Photo: Tami Pokorny characterized the channel form and fl oodplain, located pools, side channels, instream wood, and took photographs while fl oating the river over two days with several steering committee members and guides Nick Hendrickson and Ryan Jackson. They spent a third day observing the effects of erosion along the south side shoreline. Landowners there and elsewhere across the valley have graciously shared their family histories, brought forward concerns and ideas, and welcomed steering committee members to take a look for themselves. Currently, NSD is updating the channel migration zone mapping fi rst completed by the U.S. Departmemnt of Interior’s Bureau of Reclamation in 2004, utilizing the 2014 LiDAR to refi ne the delineation. This mapping will comprise a core element of the Resiliency Plan, as it defi nes the extent of the river corridor. Its chapters will also characterize existing hazards, aquatic habitat, riparian vegetation, hydrology, hydraulics, geology and sediment sources, and risks from invasive plants. Taken together, this information will enable the steering committee to characterize “desired future conditions” and to consider a full portfolio of actions necessary to achieving resiliency gains over time. Summer 2021 will hopefully allow for the opportunity for steering committee members to review specifi c project concepts together on location and to assess feasibility, costs, and permitting. In anticipation of future phases, project partner Trout Unlimited is Large downed trees and their enormous root wads rack up other woody material and create the eddies and pools that salmon need in the middle Hoh River. Photo: Tami Pokorny Kevin Ryan, Alice Ryan, Chenoa Black, and Ruby Sheriff about to plant. Photo: Martin Dillon working with the county to reach out to local businesses and non-profi ts to consider ways to grow local capacity to fi ll restoration and resiliency-related jobs. The results of this effort will be written up as a chapter in the resiliency plan. In addition to the Hoh Tribe and land- owners, many organizations have already contributed greatly to this planning effort by making presentations, attending project meetings or sharing studies and other resources. These include Olympic National Park, US DOT Western Lands Federal Highways, USDA Forest Service, WA Department of Fish and Wildlife, WA Department of Natural Resources, University of Washington’s ONRC, Jefferson County Public Works, Coast Salmon Partnership, Wild Salmon Center, The Nature Conservancy, Trout Unlimited and 10,000 Years Institute. [Author’s note: The Middle Hoh River Resiliency Plan project is distinct from the Federal High Way Administration Western Federal Lands’ Upper Hoh Road Phase 2 (WFL UHR) project. The WFL UHR project is a large federal construction project to improve and protect vehicle access to Olympic National Park. Road project updates are presented at Resiliency Plan Steering Committee meetings. For more information on the WFL UHR project, email Alec Harrison at alec.harrison@dot.gov. For more information on the Resiliency Plan project and meetings, email Tami Pokorny at tpokorny@co.jefferson.wa.us or call 360-379-4498.] 12 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER Tim Abbe, Jill Silver and Mike Ericsson collect pebble measurements to help quantify hydraulic roughness and sediment transport dynamics of the Hoh River main stem. Mike Rhode supervises. Photo: Tami Pokorny Fish biologists Michell Krall, Reid Camp, and Shelby Burgess of Cramer Fish Sciences get ready to launch their raft and describe existing habitat for salmon including pools, side channels and spawning areas. Photo: Tami Pokorny With support from NOAA’s Ocean Guardian School program, Quileute Tribal School grades 7-12 in La Push Washington have begun their journey to becoming an Ocean Guardian School. In La Push, where the new school is being built, there is a need to recognize, learn about, and protect the watersheds fl owing to First Beach and Second Beach. Through their Ocean Guardian School project, students from QTS have been learning about what a watershed is and what feeds into this specifi c watershed. They have been learning how the removal of trees at the site of the new school has removed natural protections and barriers to pollution ending up in our ocean. They have seen either through pictures or fi rsthand how the ecology of the whole area has had to be disrupted in order to build our future school and they are helping to strengthen the ecosystem by planting native plants, building animal habitats, pulling invasive plants and collecting data on the health of the streams. In conjunction and with support from “Bonds across the water” they have been learning the skills that they need in order to monitor water quality, conduct stream habitat inventories, and assess fi sh passage in culverts. The goal of this whole program is to help our students take on the respon- sibility of being stewards of this land and these waters, starting at the site of our new school, as it is being built from the ground up. As part of this project, all students from grade 6-12 were going to go on a major fi eld trip taking on planting, pulling invasive plants and doing data collection; sadly, Covid-19 closed schools two days before that trip was scheduled last March. So, Chenoa Black (12th grade), Ruby Sheriff (11th grade) and Kevin Ryan (11th Grade), showed up to the site after school got out. These students worked with 7-12th grade Science Teacher Alice Ryan, Paraeducator Ben Nye, 6th Grade Teacher Margery Marshal, and Marty Dillon. Mr. Dillon provided transportation for the plants, signs and tools. The rest got to work trekking through deforested soil next to the stream to plant 62 native edible plants and place signs around the area so that people would know what the students were doing. Kevin Ryan, Alice Ryan, Chenoa Black, and Ruby Sheriff about to plant. Photo: Martin Dillon 06. Quileute Tribal School working hard to become an Ocean Guardian School By Alice Ryan, Quileute Tribal School NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 13 Tim Abbe, Jill Silver and Mike Ericsson collect pebble measurements to help quantify hydraulic roughness and sediment transport dynamics of the Hoh River main stem. Mike Rhode supervises. Photo: Tami Pokorny “We are proud of our students, our staff, and our community for the leadership demonstrated as an Ocean Guardian School. Our students, our staff, and our community collaboratively serve to protect our watershed and tributaries. The work in which we engage protects our very way of life and perpetuates our heritage, our culture, and our livelihood for generations to come. We are truly grateful for this opportunity and for the knowledge we are gaining throughout our work together,” exclaimed Principal Ryan Stevens. The NOAA Ocean Guardian School program awards small grants to K-12 schools to carry out hands-on stewardship projects that help to protect the health of local watersheds, our global ocean and special ocean areas such as national marine sanctuaries. To read more, please visit: https://sanctuaries.noaa.gov/ education/ocean_guardian. “I charged Haily Payne (8th grade) and Nakita Ward-Bender (8th grade) with naming the plants on fl ags so that we could identify them better. I went around and told them what all the plants were and gave them a list. When I double checked them, the plants all had names...like Jimbo, Alexis, Johnny Boy...this was fun and translated into the fi eld when we were planting. I would hear Chenoa shouting across the fi eld, ‘I am planting Billy Jean; who are you planting?’” — Alice Ryan Haily Payne getting organized. Photo: Alice RyanKevin Ryan was in charge of planning the signage. Photo: Alice Ryan Norm says, “This is a fall-bearing raspberry we’ve had for several years that was always about as tall as Peggy and 7-8’ across. One fall, I had some extra urine soaked biochar. I pulled back the mulch and spread the biochar. The cane length increased to 16’ and the production of raspberries tripled. I wish I knew the cultivar!” Photo: Norm Baker 14 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER Back in Minnesota, Peggy and I ran the Northstar Daylily Gardens in the town of Rogers. While running the nursery, we were transitioning from chemical fertil- izer and pesticide growing into organic growing and the benefi ts quickly became obvious. While attending a professional seminar on soil fertility, a young fellow in the back of the room asked the lecturer, “What’s the most fertile soil in the world?”. The U of M professor responded “terra preta soils in South America”. Many people in the audience would give their eyeteeth for such soil, but the professor said “We don’t know anything about it”. I decided to do some research on terra preta. A few years later, when Peggy and I retired to Sequim and built a home, the place we chose for a vegetable garden was an old slash burn site left when the property was logged 25 years earlier. Digging the charred logs and rocks out, and preparing to make the soil better, I recalled that lecture and decided to do more research on biochar. As a lifelong grower, what I read was astonishing. The addition of nutrient-charged biochar to depleted garden soils could double or triple yields. I began to investigate how to produce and use biochar. Biochar is a game changer for the problems of sustainability, environmental pollution, soil depletion and climate change facing mankind. Go to the Olympic Chapter of the Sierra Club (https://www.sierraclub.org/washing- ton/north-olympic/biochar) for an over- view where you’ll also fi nd links to organi- zations, websites and current publications that will jumpstart your education. Terra preta soils were made by humans starting thousands of years ago. Scientists think the soils were created by indigenous tribes cooking over a wood fi re and after the meal simply throwing the charcoal and other things like animal bones, broken pottery, green plant waste and manure into a garbage dump that grew crops signifi cantly better. These people began to develop those areas into gardens while 07. Biochar – Why Wait? By Norman Baker, PhD, and Peggy Baker Norm says, “This is a fall-bearing raspberry we’ve had for several years that was always about as tall as Peggy and 7-8’ across. One fall, I had some extra urine soaked biochar. I pulled back the mulch and spread the biochar. The cane length increased to 16’ and the production of raspberries tripled. I wish I knew the cultivar!” Photo: Norm Baker NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 15 domesticating wild plants into crops. Academic and public interest about these soils has produced thousands of scientifi c and public publications. Now we have non-profi ts devoted to the research and application of biochar. In the United States, we now have the International Biochar Initiative (IBI) and United States Biochar Initiative (USBI) as well as many state and local organiza- tions. Washington State, under the guidance of researchers at Washington State University, in particular, has been a hotbed of research and application and is now mentioned on the International Biochar Initiative website. And, the business community is starting to respond and produce biochar. Biochar is nothing more than charcoal made from previously living materials like woody waste, agricultural waste, nut shells, manure, and the like, hence the name bio- and char. Previously living avoids the issue of environmental contamination. For example, used tires can be made into charcoal. Biochar is not low temperature charcoal like you would use to grill a pizza or high temperature charcoal like activated carbon. Biochar is made in the middle of this temperature scale — usually anywhere from 450 to 750 °C (840—1400 °F). And, it can be made personally as well as commercially although it is quite expensive. There are two basic reasons, plus dozens of additional reasons, at all scales of our economy and culture, to make and use biochar. First, when biochar is incorporated into agricultural soils as an amendment (not a fertilizer), it has a number of benefi ts increasing crop production, about 18%, on average, over the best organic crop management practices currently used. Raw biochar is chemically very reactive. “These are patty pan and spaghetti squash and a salmon creek squash, a summer squash from the Columbia River area. Peggy is standing in a part of the garden we used to compare growth with and without biochar. These vines, where biochar was applied, were up to 50’ in length.” Photo: Norm Baker 16 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER A handful of raw biochar. Photo: Tami Pokorny “Our smallest squash was larger than the biggest squash we could fi nd in stores around Sequim.” Photo: Norm Baker First, it needs to be “activated” with water and then it will aggressively adsorb nutrients. Once “charged” with nutrients, the biochar takes a few years for the microbe population to grow and fully develop. This is the slow process of building soil fertility that is responsible for amazing crop responses. Plants send tiny hair-like roots into the soil dissolving the microbes and taking up the nutrients they need. Growers start to see some crop responses the second year but it takes a full fi ve years for full maturity. When biochar is incorporated into the soil, one pound of biochar effectively seques- ters three pounds of carbon dioxide. As we all know, CO2 and some other greenhouse gases are responsible for global warm- ing and now the IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) recognizes bio- char as the second-best way, after trees, to remove CO2 from the atmosphere. As the biochar research continues to grow and develop, scientists are fi nding amaz- ing new examples of its function and use in our ecosystem. For example, some of the biochar from forest fi res, if it is not incor- porated into the soil, slowly fi lters or fl oats downstream into our meadows, rivers and lakes. Now marine and river estuary beds are one of the greatest natural deposits of carbon on the planet. Just another reason to protect those estuaries! Currently, both the IBI and USBI are working to make biochar a mainstream commodity in our culture and economy. Industrially, biochar is manufactured in several different ways. Kilns are slowly coming online especially in areas with large amounts of woody waste like the state of Washington. And, existing biomass and power plants are fi ne- tuning their technology to produce and use woody waste to make biochar in energy production. Right here on the Olympic Peninsula, the paper plant in Port Townsend, WA is producing biochar from woody waste. Although “backyard” biochar production is possible, most common methods and devices produce considerable smoke. The particulate emissions that are especially a problem are PM2.5. This ultrafi ne particulate matter is directly linked to very serious life-long health consequences. NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 17 The Turning Tides for Seagrass Team: Olivia Graham, John Hunter, Krystal Russell, Jon Mowe, Kevin Ryan, Alice Ryan, and Julie Tennis, after learning seagrass wasting disease fi eld survey methods (Summer 2018). Photo: Aaron Mumm “These sunfl owers were labeled to grow up to 6’ tall with 10” wide blooms. Ours were 10’ tall with blooms up to 14”!” Photo: Norm Baker Norm and Peggy’s garden. Photo: Norm Baker Let me give you a real-world example of the benefi ts of biochar incorporated into our personal garden. In the picture above, you see two organic gardens separated by a chicken coop. The chickens are on one side and the garden on the other side. In the fall, we switch them to the opposite side. The garden on the left has had 2” of biochar added to a depth of 8 inches for about 10% of the soil volume. The non- biochar garden on the right has had no biochar added. The garden on the left, out-produces the garden on the right by about 18 to 20% and the quality is exceptional. The chicken coop in the middle has fi ne wood shavings added to the fl oor to absorb all the chicken poop. Every time the coop gets stinky we add more biochar and wood shavings and we go a full year with no additional attention. In early spring, we shovel out the wood shavings and biochar and add it directly to the garden that will be used for growing vegetables that year. Our chickens are healthy and the eggs are fantastic. Back of the envelope calculations show that this one 2,000 sq ft garden has a little over 3,000 pounds of CO2 sequestered as biochar in that soil. This is a win-win-win situation for us personally, for growers, the environment and society at large. 18 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER The Turning Tides for Seagrass Team: Olivia Graham, John Hunter, Krystal Russell, Jon Mowe, Kevin Ryan, Alice Ryan, and Julie Tennis, after learning seagrass wasting disease fi eld survey methods (Summer 2018). Photo: Aaron Mumm As a Washingtonian and marine ecologist, I have spent the last fi ve years diving in and marveling at the emerald meadows within the Salish Sea. Swaying in the waves, small crabs and snails clinging to blades, eelgrass (Zostera marina) creates lush underwater meadows, home to a myriad of invertebrates and fi sh. Through my work, I not only endeavor to better understand natural processes within these habitats, but to also support others in exploring and learning about eelgrass meadows. Though it may look unassuming, eelgrass is ecologically, econom- ically, and culturally valuable. It creates diverse homes for many animals including juvenile salmon and herring, buffers shorelines from erosion, effi ciently stores carbon, and is important to the traditions of Native American tribes in the region. Despite its signifi cance, eelgrass is at risk from disease and other stressors. To understand how disease varies across broad spatial and temporal scales, I surveyed eelgrass for disease within and beyond the Salish Sea. Often during surveys, curious beachgoers would ask, “Got any- thing interesting?” When I would jubilantly exclaim, “Yes, lots of interesting things! I’m surveying eelgrass for disease,” I was met with disappointed looks. After several such encounters, I realized that if I could help students experience and explore seagrass meadows, then perhaps they too would come to appreciate them. Knowledge alone isn’t enough to inspire environmental behaviors and actions. But from my own experience, I knew the power of transformative, experiential learning. And so, Turning Tides for Seagrass — a partnership and education outreach initiative — was born. In summer 2018, I collaborated with Julie Tennis (Pacifi c Education Institute) to help develop a week- long seagrass curricula and hands-on workshop for four dedicated teachers on the Olympic Peninsula: Alice Ryan, Krystal Russell, Jon Mowe, and John Hunter (Quileute Tribal School, Neah Bay Junior/Senior High School, Crescent High School, Forks High School). With support from Cornell University’s Engaged Graduate Student Grant, I led a workshop for the teachers; this included hands-on training for classroom and fi eld disease 08. Better Together: A Community Partnership for Seagrass and Students By Olivia Graham, Cornell University PhD Candidate NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 19 20 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER Surfgrass at low tide along the Olympic Peninsula. Photo: Olivia Graham Cameron Lee Coberly participating in a surfgrass study in 2018. Photo: Alice Ryan NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 21 Surfgrass at low tide along the Olympic Peninsula. Photo: Olivia Graham surveys. All teachers were eager to learn the research methods and, newly equipped with science kits and training, to implement seagrass activities with their students. Yet, as with many scientifi c endeavors, surveying outer coast eel- grass proved to be more challenging than originally anticipated. From fi ckle fi eld conditions to sparse eelgrass, we realized that our seagrass surveys on the Olympic Peninsula would not be as straightforward as those I normally conduct in the San Juans. Eelgrass is not as common on the rough, outer coast compared to calmer, inland waters, though I had developed a list of potential survey sites based on historical texts, technical reports, and aerial imagery. However, the sparsity of eelgrass coupled with chal- lenging fi eld conditions complicated our disease surveys. Given these setbacks, our team adapted and instead applied the same methods to survey surfgrass — a different type of seagrass that fl ourishes along rocky coastlines — that can also be infected by the same pathogen. Notably, Alice Ryan and John Hunter took their students to survey several outer coast beaches in 2018-2019. Given new challenges with the COVID-19 pandemic, our team is reassessing how to best engage students in hands-on seagrass science. By conducting our seagrass workshops and implement- ing them with middle, high school, and undergraduate students, I continue to work with collaborators to successfully achieve all three goals. Students participate in disease surveys, adding valuable fi ndings to my PhD research, while developing a deeper understanding and appreciation for seagrass meadows. They also collect data on potential environmental drivers of disease, some- thing I am continuing to explore as part of my graduate research. In working together, our team collectively engages students in hands-on, experiential seagrass activities. Hopefully, they will help the next generation of scientists become stewards for these valuable marine habitats. Author Bio: Olivia Graham is a PhD Candidate in Drew Harvell’s lab at Cornell University, though she’s fortunate enough to spend much of her time at the University of Washington’s Friday Harbor Labs. You can follow along on her marine adventures at @ojgraham on Twitter. The non-profi t Friends of Hoko River State Park – working with Clallam Bay Sekiu Li- ons, Washington State Parks, and several other partners – are providing opportuni- ties for the public to practice and benefi t from sustainable agriculture and to enjoy the Hoko River area. New and expanded programming and amenities are on the horizon thanks to a dedicated and growing pool of volunteers. In 2013, a small group of local residents re-established the kitchen garden at the John Cowan Ranch Heritage Area. The late Emil Person, cousin of John Cowan, dug the garden from sod and assisted in the planting, just as he had done when his cousin was alive. He wrote a list of vege- tables to grow and drew a map of how the garden should be planted. He provided seed potatoes from his garden, Ozette’s, Yellow Finns, and Multipliers, and showed the group how to plant them with a sprinkle of powdered milk. Emil linked the past to the future, carrying on the traditions of using your labor and industry to grow your own food. Volunteers followed his lead by planting, maintaining, harvesting and distributing vegetables from the kitchen garden, and creating demonstration plots to experi- ment with different crops using a variety of methods, like “lasagna” gardening and hugelkulture. In 2019 alone, they donated over 500 hours. Plants and seedlings are regularly given out to visitors and neigh- bors, promoting the idea that people on the West End can grow their own food. Friends of Hoko River State Park hosts tours and work groups on Sundays from 2-4pm in July, August and September. Teams of volunteers water the fi eld plots and orchard. They maintain the fl ower gardens, the picnic area, welcome gardens and more. Visitors learn about the history of the Cowan Farm, and former residents and family members continue to visit and offer information and stories about the past. The Friends group hosts the Annual Potato Dig/Seed Swap and Harvest Celebration in September. Board member Paul Bowlby is usually there to welcome the groups of potato diggers and facilitate the potato digging and distribution. 22 – NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER Nancy with some of the produce and fl owers grown at Hoko River State Park in 2020 and delivered to the Food Bank, Community Center Seniors, The Co-op and others. Photo: Roy Morris 09. Hoko State Park Sustainable Agriculture Initiative By Dr. Nancy Messmer, Friends of Hoko River State Park Working with the Olympic Orchard Society and Park staff in 2018, the Friends group worked with scion grafted from former homesteads in the Olympic National Park. To reestablish the Cowan Farm orchard, volunteers planted each of the 10 trees in a separate fenced enclosure to protect it from elk browse. This work, and ongoing grafting of heritage fruit trees, carries forward the spirit that John Cowan wished to have future generations understand: that cooperation, sharing, and hard work can create healthy, happy lives and communities. Sharing of apple tree grafts was common in his day. The Friends group and the community lost a treasured pioneer and friend recently with the death of Board Member Emil Person. Other Cowan family members are working with the Friends group to collect and organize written materials and artifacts, along with compiling comprehensive lists of items held by the family, the State Parks and the Sequim Museum. Board Members Laurel and Larry Burtness and Mike Doherty contribute personal knowledge and expertise in the historical projects. Various photo albums of the gardening and restoration work are being constructed for display during visits, and possibly online. South of the entrance to Cowan Heritage Area, the level, 5 to 6-mile Little Hoko Trail extends along the Little Hoko River and is enjoyed by many hikers. Work con- tinues to keep the trail and access bridge open and maintained. Board member Bill Riedel and volunteer Tim Van Riper hike and monitor it regularly, and the Friends group hosts a First Day Walk of the trail, an increasingly popular New Year’s tradition. Volunteers work with the North Olympic Salmon Coalition and local students on the Hoko River Stream Habitat Restoration project. Another favorite annual project is the Plein Air Painting Day, hosted by Board Member, June Bowlby. Thousands of visitors a year pass by the ranch on their way to Lake Ozette and Cape Flattery, as it is a developing park not yet open to daily use by the public. The Hoko River State Park Management Plan was approved in the fall of 2008, af- ter many years of planning and research, the publication of lengthy thorough re- ports on historical features, ethnographic analysis, scientifi c analysis, and public and community input (https://parks.state. wa.us/DocumentCenter/View/1274/Hoko- River-State-Park-Management-Plan-PDF). Friends of Hoko River State Park hope to focus attention and donations toward the Park, and work with the state legislature to allocate general funding for the State Park system. FHRSP built and maintain a bulletin board along the Hoko-Ozette Road across from the Cowan Heritage Site with Park information and other area projects like the Washington coastal cleanups and the Lake Ozette Sockeye Salmon recovery efforts. Check out the Friends of Hoko River State Park’s Facebook page for updates and announcements of upcoming activi- ties. Friends of the Hoko River State Park hope future generations will enjoy a Park experience that includes farming, recreation, and enjoyment of the natural wonders of the Northwest Olympic Peninsula. All activities are conducted based on current county and state health recommendations. Please join Friends of the Hoko River State Park. For more information, contact: Roy and Nancy at able@olypen.com or Ph: 360-963-2442. NPC MRC – 2021 NEWSLETTER – 23 Nancy with some of the produce and fl owers grown at Hoko River State Park in 2020 and delivered to the Food Bank, Community Center Seniors, The Co-op and others. Photo: Roy Morris John Hunter helping out at harvest time. Photo: Roy Morris Spruce Flats of the Middle Hoh River, where the channel has migrated at the head of Spruce Canyon. Photo: John Gussman, Doubleclick Productions “NATURAL RESOURCES TUESDAYS” West End community stakeholder meetings on water, salmon and marine resources. 1pm — 3pm North Pacifi c Coast Lead Entity for salmon recovery 4pm — 6pm North Pacifi c Coast Marine Resources Committee Meetings currently held online and by phone. Contact Tami Pokorny (Phone: 360-379-4498; Email: tpokorny@co.jefferson.wa.us) for meeting access information. 24 – NPC MRC – 2019 NEWSLETTER North Pacifi c Coast Marine Resources Committee c/o JCPH 615 Sheridan Street, Port Townsend, WA 98368 West End Natural Resources News Tami Pokorny, Editor tpokorny@co.jefferson.wa.us 360-379-4498 Julie Ann Koehlinger (Hoh Tribe) Jennifer Hagen (Quileute Tribe) Vacant (Makah Tribe) Rod Fleck (City of Forks) Cathy Lear (Clallam County) Tami Pokorny (Jefferson County) Alice Ryan (CC Citizen – Recreational Groups) John Hunter (CC Citizen – Education/Environmental Groups) Katie Krueger (CC Citizen – Scientific Community) Eileen Cooney (JC Citizen – Economic Groups) Jill Silver (JC Citizen – Conservation/Environmental Groups) Wendy Feltham (JC Citizen – Scientific Community) Printed on 30% Post Consumer Waste Recycled paper